The Nature Essay in the West

THE FUNCTION of the nature essayist, as Henry Beston pointed out some forty years ago, is like that of the poet. 1 Both attempt to reforge a fundamental continuity between inner and outer, so that for the reader the world is alive again, seen precisely for what it is, and the mind is alive to it. To have known the beauty of the world, seen with unclouded eyes the sheer wonder of a clear river or a mesa or a cottonwood tree, is to be in some sense and for that time, psychologically whole. The deepest attraction of the nature essay, probably, is this basic rightness of gestalt. Good nature writing is a recapturing of the child's world, the world before fragmentation, the world as poets and artists can see it. The best nature writing has this, and has also the reliability of science, for a true completeness must, logically, include the objective aspect of mind as well.

In the West, the nature essay also reflects the European and eastern newcomers' drive to be at home in a new land: first to explore it, to list its ingredients and learn its history, then to settle in it, finally to cherish and defend it. For several decades beginning with Lewis and Clark, western nature writing was done by travelers, and by necessity took the form of brief sketches within journal-like narratives. Perhaps its chief quality or charm, at this stage, is the wonder of newness as the writer, far from what he regarded as civilization, burst upon the vast freedom of the prairies or was awed by the abundance of animal life or the wild strangeness of distant, snow-draped mountains floating above the heat waves of summer. By definition, an explorer is not at home, and it is not surprising that the writing of most early observers lacks some of the closeness and thoroughness which distinguishes the best of the genre, and which seems to come from a true immersion in an environment. Nevertheless, even in the early years, there are occasional passages which show that the writer was deeply moved by the wilderness–Meriwether Lewis looking down from a hilltop on the confluence of the Yellowstone and the Missouri, or Prince Maximilian silently descending the Missouri at night, almost thirty years later, listening to the elk and the wolves on shore, and the buffalo thrashing their way across the river. These are some of the great moments of newness.

By the latter decades of the nineteenth century, the first freshness was gone. At this point, with the work of a few important writers, chief among them John Muir and Mary Austin, the western nature essay took a turn onto a more profound level. Muir and Austin, and others, spent the requisite time to become dwellers, as opposed to travelers, and the deep perception of place they developed was significant not only for the nature essay, but perhaps also for the general maturation of western regional literature. With them, the post-frontier era begins. They came to believe that the frontier challenge was not of physical movement to a new place, but of the enlargement of understanding. "The secret of learning the mesa life," Austin wrote, "is to sit still, and to sit still, and to keep on sitting still." 2

In our own time, a central concern of nature essayists is the shrinking of the wild biosphere as the technosphere expands. It is now possible that Thoreau's question,"What would become of us, if we walked only in a garden or a mall?" could become more than a rhetorical one. Wilderness becomes increasingly rare. For western nature writers in the twentieth century–Aldo Leopold, Joseph Wood Krutch, and Edward Abbey, to cite just three examples–the old American dialectic of the wild and the civilized has seemingly worked its way into the endgame, with the wild now disappearing so rapidly, so irrevocably, that the fear arises we might be undoing not just wilderness but ourselves as well. The pockets of wild land and the few remaining undammed rivers become powerful in the literature, as settings for introspection about our species and as examples of natural, planetary health.

I. FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The classics of nature writing, beginning with the first great work of the modern era, Gilbert White's The Natural History of Selborne (1789), and including such later books as Henry David Thoreau's Walden (1854), John Muir's The Mountains of California (1894), Mary Austin's The Land of Little Rain (1903), Henry Beston's The Outermost House (1928), Joseph Wood Krutch's The Voice of the Desert (1954), and Edward Abbey's Desert Solitaire (1968), are works of a settled, home-knowing and home-loving consciousness. Place, after all, is a logical center and starting point: from a home ground one may venture thoughts on the human condition–as all of the major nature writers do–in terms of a solidly naturalistic perspective (the cycle of the four seasons being the most common reference and pattern for the writing), and from a practical involvement with the earth. The best nature writers are connected in this way; they have, as it were, a bit of the home place under their fingernails.

In the early decades of nature writing about the West, we do not often find the familiarized expression of the placed. On the other hand, we would be remiss to ignore the genuine excitement of space and wildness the West offered, "once upon a time." Among the details of travel and food-getting leaps up the occasional great moment:

[Lewis] Thursday April 25th, 1805
. . . our rout lay along the foot of the river hills. when we had proceeded about four miles, I ascended the hills from whence I had a most pleasing view of the country, particularly of the wide and fertile vallies formed by the missouri and the yellowstone rivers, which occasionally unmasked by the wood on their borders disclose their meanderings for many miles in their passage through these delightfull tracts of country. I could not discover the junction of the rivers immediately, they being concealed by the wood; however, sensible that it could not be distant I determined to encamp on the bank of the Yellow stone river which made it's appearance about 2 miles South of me. the whol face of the country was covered with herds of Buffaloe, Elk & Antelopes; deer are also abundant, but keep themselves more concealed in the woodland. the buffaloe Elk and Antelope are so gentle that we pass near them while feeding, without appearing to excite any alarm among them; and when we attract their attention, they frequently approach us more nearly to discover what we are. . . .
3

This is a journal entry by a man traveling with a purpose, with several purposes in fact, and it was not meant as literature; but there is no mistaking the Adamic undercurrent, the consciousness of Meriwether Lewis that he was indeed in a singular, privileged vanguard.

The records of the travels of Thomas Nuttall, who made three explorations into the West in 1811, 1819, and 1834, suggest a more deliberate approach to the essay form and to literature. In Nuttall's writings about the West, which appear in scattered paragraphs in his later ornithological and botanical works and most conspicuously in A Journal of Travels into the Arkansa Territory, During the Year 1819, there is a more informed documentation of natural history than was possible for Lewis, and in addition more reflection in the classic manner of the personal essay. Nuttall reveals his love of nature, and a scheme of values in which geology and wild flora and fauna seem of considerably greater interest than detail of travel and camp, and he also essays general comments on the relationship of civilization and wilderness, somewhat after the manner of Crèvecoeur, so that what emerges from his journals and his more formal writings is something close to a literary persona.

Nuttall, who was born in England in 1786 and died there in 1859, was one of the most thorough of the early generalists in American natural history. His Genera of North American Plants (1818) and A Manual of the Ornithology of the United States and Canada (1832) were authoritative for their time, and were in heavy use throughout the nineteenth century–the bird book ("Nuttall," as it was familiarly known) into the twentieth. Despite Washington Irving's characterization of him as absentminded ("he went groping and stumbling along among the wilderness of sweets, forgetful of everything but his immediate pursuit,"Irving said of Nuttall's accompaniment of the Astorians in 1811), 4 it is clear that Nuttall was, in another sense, absolutely present. His success as a collector and taxonomist suggests the point, and his writings go far to prove it. Unfortunately, we have no record of his trip partway with the Astorians, and his 1834 journal has also been lost, but we do have an account of his middle, southwestern excursion. In 1819, Nuttall traveled up the Arkansas River into what is now Oklahoma, and after passing through seemingly endless climax forest along the lower portions of the river, came finally into higher and more open country. We see him here at the prime moment for the eastern traveler. He immediately fell to studying the prairie vegetation, in which he delighted wholeheartedly.

The surface of these woodless expanses was gently undulated, and thickly covered with grass knee high, even to the summits of the hills. . . . The flowers, which beautify them at this season of nature's vigour, communicated all the appearance of a magnificent garden, fantastically decked with innumerable flowers of the most splendid hues. 5

In common with nearly all travelers to the frontier, up to the present, the naturalist commented on the state of civilization of the few settlers in the area, as if the very dominance and beauty of the wild called forth cultural generalizations. It was a new world, fresh, and human activity stood freshly revealed. The settlers did not impress Nuttall favorably.

It is to be regretted that the widely scattered state of the population in this territory, is but too favorable to the spread of ignorance and barbarism. . . . the rising generation are growing up in mental darkness, like the French hunters who have preceded them, and who have almost forgot that they appertain to the civilized world. 6

The European model was Nuttall's apparent standard, for he referred to wilderness as "a dead solemnity, where the human voice is never heard to echo, where not even ruins of the humblest kind recal [sic] its history to mind, or prove the past dominion of man." 7

But the wilderness was where the new plants and birds were, and it was to wilderness that Nuttall returned again and again. In 1834 he resigned his position at Harvard to travel once more to the West, this time with Nathaniel Wyeth, the Cambridge merchant who designed to enter the fur trade, and with a young Philadelphia ornithologist, John Kirk Townsend. The party went all the way to the Pacific, and Nuttall continued by ship to Hawaii, always and indefatigably in search of new plants. The West was Nuttall's Eden, where he could roam free and give names to almost everything before him; he left it and America with a deep sense of loss, recorded in his "Preface" to Michaux's North American Sylva in 1841: ". . . and I must now bid a long adieu to the `New World,' its sylvan scenes, its mountains, wilds, and plains; and henceforth, in the evening of my career, I return, almost an exile, to the land of my nativity." 8

In his supplements to the Sylva, a work first published in 1810–1813 and considerably enlarged by Nuttall for a new edition in 1841, the naturalist occasionally departs from botanical description to engage in short narratives about his own experiences with western trees. His aesthetic joy is evident and unabashed, leading his science writing into the realm of the literary essay:

As we sailed along the smooth bosom of these extensive streams [the "deep Wahlamet" and the "wide Oregon"], for many miles we never lost sight of the long-leaved Willow, which seemed to dispute the domain of the sweeping flood, fringing the banks of the streams and concealing the marshes entirely from view; at every instant, when touched by the breeze, displaying the contrasted surface of their leaves, above of a deep and lucid green, beneath the bluish-white of silver: the whole scene, reflected by the water and in constant motion, presented a silent picture of exquisite beauty. 9

John Kirk Townsend, Nuttall's companion on the 1834 journey, left a record which has been called "the most readable and exciting account ever written of the continental crossing.""First published in 1839, the Narrative of a Journey Across the Rocky Mountains, to the Columbia River, and a Visit to the Sandwich Islands, Chili, &c. is certainly readable–in part because Townsend, a member of a prominent Philadelphia family, wrote an urbane, faintly amused, often more than faintly scornful, prose which interests the reader as much in the writer's character as in the scenes portrayed. Townsend is an early specimen of the tourist. His account contains short descriptions of camas bulbs and chokecherries, among the somewhat scanty natural history references, but this traveler's attention seems to have been mainly on topography-in-general and on the details and stories of camp life. He is an example of the writer on the move. However, there was an occasion when Townsend took a leisurely look around himself–he was ill, and was offended by the brawling of the trappers at a rendezvous, and so stayed apart–and the result is a pleasant Rocky Mountain pastoral scene:

30th.–Our camp here is the most lovely one in every respect, and as several days have elapsed since we came, and I am convalescent, I can roam about the country a little and enjoy it. The pasture is rich and very abundant, and it does our hearts good to witness the satisfaction and comfort of our poor jaded horses. Our tents are pitched in a pretty little valley or indentation in the plain, surrounded on all sides by low bluffs of yellow clay. Near us flows the clear deep water of the Sidkadee [Green River], and beyond, on every side, is a wide and level prairie, interrupted only by some gigantic peaks of mountains and conical butes [sic] in the distance. 11

One early naturalist whose writing seems to reflect a more spirited engagement with the wilderness was Alexander Philip Maximilian, Prince of Wied-Neuwied, a small principality on the Rhine. Maximilian not only "wintered-over" in the wilderness, a distinctive accomplishment according to the measurement of frontier veterans, but he also paid attention to the sounds and smells of the wild and to the complex life of Indian encampments, so that his account, Travels in the Interior of North America, 1832– 1834, is one of the richest and most precise of early travel documents. During his young manhood in the Prussian army (he fought in the Napoleonic Wars, rose to the rank of major, and was decorated with the Iron Cross), Maximilian had become intensely interested in natural history, and had pursued his studies in the Amazon jungles for three years (1815–1817) after leaving the military. He collected and named flora and fauna, and made the first detailed studies of native tribes in the Amazon Basin. Later, after identifying and arranging his South American collections and after corresponding with Thomas Say, the American entomologist who had accompanied the Long expedition to the front range of the Rockies in 1819–1820, "Prince Max" determined to extend his nature studies to North America. In April, 1833, he set out by steamboat from St. Louis, bound for the upper Missouri, eager to see the primitive part of America. His narrative, in common with others of this early period, is largely concerned with travel, but Maximilian seemed to have a more relaxed approach than most-perhaps because he traveled with a manservant–and there are numerous occasions when he simply sat still and watched.

I often passed my time in the lofty and shady forest which extended beyond the willow thickets on the banks, at the border of the open prairie. Sitting on an old trunk, in the cool shade, I could observe at leisure the surrounding scene. I saw the turkey buzzards, that hovered above the hills, contending against the high wind, while a couple of falcons frequently made a stoop at them, doubtless to defend their nest. A couple of ravens likewise flew about them. The red-eyed finch, the beautiful Sylvia aestiva, the Sylvia striata, and the wren, flew around me, the latter singing very prettily. 12

When, in the fall of 1833, he made the turn at Fort Union and started back down the Missouri, Maximilian was deeply impressed by the abundance of wildlife: Buffaloes and elks had crossed the river before us, and we heard the noise they made in the water at a considerable distance. The island was covered with lofty trees, and in many places, with tall plants, especially artemisia, but had many grassy and open spots, and we found on it five buffaloes, and several troops of elks and Virginian deer. A white wolf looked at us from the opposite bank, and the great cranes flew slowly and heavily before us. 13

Appended to his travel narrative, the German prince included some two hundred fifty pages of detailed observations on the Indian life he had seen and to some degree taken part in, covering food, clothing, games, rituals, language (including sign language), stories, and social relations; the contrast with Townsend, who at one point simply said of an Indian village, "I scarcely know how to commence a description of the tout en semble of the camp, or to frame a sentence which will give an adequate idea of the extreme filth, and most horrific nastiness of the whole vicinity," 14 is instructive. Where Townsend was put off, Maximilian sat down comfortably in a Sioux tipi, hesitated not to accept the proffered dish of freshly cooked dog, and pronounced it "excellent."

Among the writings of mountain men, Osborne Russell's Journal of a Trapper, which he readied for publication in 1848, is a remarkable document. Its descriptions of place are innocently heartfelt, and the appended essays on animals and Indian tribes of the Rocky Mountains are enlivened by a quaint, untutored, workmanlike approach. Though Russell was modest about his own writing, and felt that he was trespassing on poets' territory when he attempted to describe the mountain wilderness, it is clear that he himself had the poetic spirit. In his second summer in the West (1835), he wandered into the Lamar River valley in what is now Yellowstone National Park, and formed an immediate attachment to that beautiful area, calling it "Secluded Valley." "I almost wished I could spend the remainder of my days in a place like this," he wrote. 15 He returned to the Lamar several times during his years as a trapper, often attempting to describe the peculiar hold the landscape had upon him. Not a tourist but a working trapper, and often in danger, Russell nevertheless was keenly sensitive to the fact that in wilderness lay a special power. There is something in the wild romantic scenery of this valley which I cannot nor will I, attempt to describe but the impressions made upon my mind while gazing from a high eminence on the surrounding landscape one evening as the sun was gently gliding behind the western mountain and casting its gigantic shadows across the vale were such as time can never efface from my memory. . . . 16

This trapper went out of his way to engage the wilderness at its most potent. In the depth of winter, 1841, having stayed on in the mountains after the last rendezvous had been held and the beaver business had declined, Russell rode out from the Indian camp he had been staying in, just east of the Great Salt Lake. The 3d day of Feby. I took a trip up the mountain to hunt Sheep I ascended a spur with my horse sometimes riding and then walking until near the top where I found a level bench where the wind had blown the snow off. . . . . . . . the air was calm serene and cold and the stars shone with an uncommon brightness after sleeping till about Midnight I arose and renewed my fire My horse was continually walking backwards and forwards to keep from freezing I was upwards of 6,000 ft above the level of the lake, below me was a dark abyss silent as the night of Death I set and smoked my pipe for about an hour and then laid down and slept until near daylight–My Chief object in Sleeping at this place was to take a view of the lake when the Sun arose in the morning. 17

Shortly after the mountain man's day had faded began the era of the government surveyor. Well provisioned and equipped for the most part, working as officials on a mission, the surveyors of the middle and later decades of the nineteenth century corrected and completed the mapping of the West, made it known to all through their reports, and served thus to edge the "country in the mind" out of the unknown and mythic, toward the account books. However, the writing of some of these men-John Charles Frémont, Howard Stansbury, William Henry Brewer, Clarence King, and especially Clarence E. Dutton–is nowhere near as dry as their assigned work might suggest. Their reports are informed with excellent geological understanding and often ecological insight. The immensity of the West, and the great views from high points necessary for mapping, and the sheer exhilaration of contact with wilderness, all worked to bring their documents alive. Some of the writing is very good indeed. Frémont (1813–1890), who in 1842 mapped the Oregon Trail through South Pass in minute detail and whose later expeditions likewise took on historical and political importance, had an enjoyment of mountain wilderness, at least in its summer season, which considerably brightens his journal report. The Wind River range, which he first visited in August of 1842, seemed to speak to him in terms quite other than the march-tempo tunes of manifest destiny, future railroads, and future mines which he heard nearly everywhere else in the ten or fifteen thousand miles of western travel covered by his expeditions. Here in the mountains he came closest to writing simply of nature as nature. It is as if the Wind Rivers stunned him into a purely aesthetic response. It is not by the splendor of faroff views, which have lent such a glory to the Alps, that these impress the mind; but by a gigantic disorder of enormous masses, and a savage sublimity of naked rock, in wonderful contrast with innumerable green spots of rich floral beauty, shut up in their stern recesses." 18 Later, describing a climb to the summit of the range, he commented that "a stillness the most profound and a terrible solitude forced themselves constantly on the mind as the great features of the place." 19 There was no conceivable use for these gigantic mountains, no obvious material reason for people to be there. Captain Frémont went on, of course, to California and a gold rush fortune, a senatorship, even the Republican nomination for President; yet his reports, and his unfinished Memoirs of My Life (1887) often reflect a kind of wistfulness in their descriptions of place, as if Frémont did in fact, at least half-consciously, surmise what he was leaving behind.

Howard Stansbury (1806–1863), who as a Captain in the Topographical Engineers made a hardship-plagued survey of the Great Salt Lake and its surrounding desert in 1849, wrote a straightforward account of the area which presents its ruggedness clearly. But Stansbury too, perhaps to a greater degree than Frémont, was awake to wild beauty. In Exploration and Survey of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah (1852), describing a desert where he and his men had to carry water for their mules (rationing them to two pints per day), and where their own survival was very much in question, he calls the area "a landscape full of wild and peculiar beauty." 20 In the course of setting up triangulation points, the party came upon the pelican colonies of Gunnison Island in the Great Salt Lake, and Stansbury's description of the scene reveals a lively aesthetic awareness:

The whole neck and the shores of both of the little bays were occupied by immense flocks of pelicans and gulls, disturbed now for the first time, probably, by the intrusion of man. They literally darkened the air as they rose upon the wing, and, hovering over our heads, caused the surrounding rocks to reecho with their discordant screams. The ground was thickly strewn with their nests, of which there must have been some thousands. Numerous young, unfledged pelicans, were found in the nests on the ground, and hundreds half-grown, huddled together in groups near the water, while the old ones retired to a long line of sand-beach on the southern side of the bay, where they stood drawn up, like Prussian soldiers, in ranks three or four deep, for hours together, apparently without motion. 21

Stansbury's appreciation for the desert–typically the least hospitable of environments, a kind of test for the nature lover–comes through his account despite his comments on its difficulty. What called forth his best writing–even extending him to metaphor at times–was the experience of absolute space and starkness in the reaches of the Great Basin, where life forms were sharply outlined and precious.

In 1860, the State Legislature of California sponsored what it hoped would be "an accurate and complete Geological Survey of the State." 22 Taking part in this significant undertaking were two men whose writings have lasted into our time, William Henry Brewer (1828–1910) and Clarence King (1842–1901). Both were graduates of the Sheffield Scientific School of Yale University, capable wilderness travelers in the West, and competent, not to say graceful, writers, with King decidedly the more literary of the two. Brewer, who had grown up on a farm in upstate New York, maintained a commonsensical outlook and a practical realism in the many letters he sent home from the California survey, letters gathered into a continuous account a century later; King, in his best-known and most consciously artistic work, Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada (1872), used some of the survey experiences as a starting point only, to create a classic series of sketches and adventures. In him, we see the first literary man in the history of the western nature essay.

Brewer's charm as a writer is that of the ordinary man given heavy responsibilities and difficulties, who meets these and has time and mind left over for appreciating beauty. He climbed mountains for the view as much as for survey work, and seemed to delight in recording what lay below. From a hill at the southern end of San Francisco Bay, he wrote, "The valley looked like a map, and the head of the bay, with its swamps intersected and cut up with winding streams and bayous crossing and winding in every direction, made by far the prettiest arabesque picture of the kind I have ever seen." 23 On one memorably clear day, from the summit of Mount Diablo, Brewer was able to see, he said, forty thousand square miles, from the Pacific to the Sierra Nevada. "What a grand sight!" he exclaimed, in typically unembellished enthusiasm. As the Survey progressed, Brewer became fit and hardy, and relished the outdoor life. He wrote several times that he liked camp life best, and never, whatever the weather, caught a cold in the wilderness. But Brewer, although it has been said that his writings "must . . . be considered the founding statement of California mountaineering," 24 does not transmute wilderness fitness into philosophy. His contribution to the western nature essay is more in the line of topographical realism and precision.

Clarence King was a writer–at the very least we can say he was a would-be writer–a fact immediately apparent as one turns from other surveyors' reports to the opening of Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada "The western margin of this continent is built of a succession of mountain chains folded in broad corrugations, like waves of stone upon whose seaward base beat the mild small breakers of the Pacific." 25 With an amazingly comprehensive grasp of geological history as expressed in present landforms, King laid out for his readers a view of the West–in Mountaineering and later in Systematic Geology (1878), his major contribution to the Fortieth Parallel Survey–which would not be surpassed until the photographs from space in the 1960s. King was also an excellent storyteller, whose account in Mountaineering departed from the daily journal record to create incident and character in almost novelistic fashion. No one before King, in the western travel essay, had this sort of range. If he had brought his gifts to maturity, King might have been a major western writer. Even so, his contribution is important. The distinctive finish he added to survey notes may be seen by comparing an account of his with one of Brewer's, of the same view in the Kings River Canyon district of the Sierra Nevada. Brewer says, in his serviceable way,

The rocks are granite, very light-colored, the soil light-gray granite sand. Here and there are granite knobs or domes, their sides covered with loose angular bowlders, among which grow bushes, or here and there a tree. Sometimes there are great slopes of granite, almost destitute of soil, with only an occasional bush or tree that gets a rooting in some crevice. Behind all this rise the sharp peaks of the crest, bare and desolate, streaked with snow; and, since the storms, often great banks of clouds curl around their summits. 26 King attempts to express the scene as an involving, rhythmic pattern:

I believe no one can study from an elevated lookout the length and depth of one of these great Sierra cañons without asking himself some profound geological questions. Your eyes range along one or the other wall. The average descent is immensely steep. Here and there side ravines break down the rim in deep lateral gorges. Again, the wall advances in sharp, salient precipices, rising two or three thousand feet, sheer and naked, with all the air of a recent fracture. At times the two walls approach each other, standing in perpendicular gateways. Toward the summits the cañon grows, perhaps, a little broader, and more and more prominent lateral ravines open into it, until at last it receives the snow drainage of the summit, which descends through broad, rounded amphitheatres, separated from each other by sharp, castellated snow-clad ridges. 27 The difference is small, perhaps, in point of imagery or diction, but the sense of organization is telling.

If King, writing with both geological insight and artistic care for leading the eye, helped to bring the West into sharper focus, he did not venture into a philosophy of nature or wilderness in any overt way, not even as far as the sober Brewer had. There are hints in King–speaking of the forest belt of the Sierra, he said, "Lifted above the bustling industry of the plains and the melodramatic mining theatre of the foothills, it has a grand, silent life of its own, refreshing to contemplate even from a hundred miles away" 28 – but only hints. King's career led him elsewhere.

Perhaps the finest of the surveyors, as a writer, was Clarence Dutton (1841–1912), whose work has even been said to belong "properly with that of Thoreau, Burroughs, Muir. . . ." 29 As a captain in the U.S. Army, Dutton spent parts of the years 1875 through 1881 studying the geology of the "Four Corners" region of the Southwest, and described his findings in four major works: Report on the Geology of the High Plateaus of Utah (1880), The Physical Geology of the Grand Cañon (1882), Tertiary History of the Grand Cañon District (1882), a book which has recently been reprinted and which is perhaps the climax to "surveyor's prose," and finally, Mount Taylor and the Zuni Plateau (1885). Dutton had the large grasp of King, as regards landforms and the immensities of geologic time, and a remarkably lucid style, complemented in Tertiary History by the equally remarkable artwork of William H. Holmes. The plateau and canyon country stands forth, as it were, in the depth-revealing light of late afternoon in Dutton's works, and although he did not become a dweller, and thus perhaps did not penetrate so deeply into the place-mind as Thoreau, say, or Muir, he is nevertheless a consummate tour guide. He is a master of the authoritative overview which yet has a poetic tone, for example in introducing a mountain range in south-central Utah: "The Tushar is also a composite structure, its northern half being a wild bristling cordillera of grand dimensions and altitudes, crowned with snowy peaks, while the southern half is conspicuously tabular." 30

In Tertiary History, Dutton raises an epistemological and aesthetic point which, in the works of subsequent writers about western wilderness, has become an important theme: that which is totally wild cannot be easily assimilated into the prepared categories of civilized perception. In fact, it will be distorted by them. A new apprehension is called for, and this seems not to be a simple acquisition but something which must be slowly lived into. Speaking of the Grand Canyon's inner gorge, Dutton wrote,

Forms so new to the culture of civilized races and so strongly contrasted with those which have been the ideals of thirty generations of white men cannot indeed be appreciated after the study of a single hour or day. 31

In accordance with this thought, Dutton's mode of presentation was an attempt at complete realism–escaping, or trying to escape, those received conventions of thirty generations.

There is no need, as we look upon them [the Vermilion Cliffs], of fancy to heighten the picture, nor of metaphor to present it. The simple truth is quite enough. I never before had a realizing sense of a cliff 1,800 to 2,000 feet high. I think I have a definite and abiding one at present. 32

Dutton did not always abide by these strictures, but the stated respect for terrain-as-it-is reveals a certain emotional dedication; only a perfect purity on the part of the observer, a non-embellishing expression, could do justice to the unique landscape. It is clear that Dutton felt such a mission, though he found it impossible to fulfill. He avoided any explicit comments in the area of the dialectic which has, from the beginnings of American literature, been suggested by the opposition of civilization and wilderness–there was, after all, perhaps little place for this in a government report. But his statements in favor of directness and accuracy show that he was aroused by the incomparable wilderness of the canyon country, and inspired to a kind of purgation of motive and expression. The main thing was to see clearly.

Dutton's degree of success can be suggested only by samples of a certain length. We need to be with this observer for several hours at least, to appreciate his patience and attentiveness. Perhaps an afternoon and evening watching the Vermilion Cliffs will serve as an example. In the bright light, depth and proportion are flattened. But as the sun declines there comes a revival. The halftones at length appear, bringing into relief the component masses; the amphitheaters recede into suggestive distances; the salients silently advance toward us; the distorted lines range themselves into true perspective; the deformed curves come back to their proper sweep; the angles grow clean and sharp; and the whole cliff arouses from lethargy and erects itself in grandeur and power as if conscious of its own majesty. Back also come the colors, and as the sun is about to sink they glow with an intense orange vermilion that seems to be an intrinsic luster emanating from the rocks themselves. 33

II. A CLOSER LOOK

With Clarence Dutton, the western nature essay may be said to have reached the upper limit of the pictorial. The West was being described to visual near-perfection. While it is true that a certain tactile sensitivity must be among the powers of a landscape-describer, it seems clear that Dutton, King, Brewer, Stansbury, and Frémont, along with the other writers discussed to this point (with the partial exceptions of Osborne Russell and Prince Maximilian), limited their descriptions to the visual realm. This limitation suggests a certain distance, a lack of grit, sound, and smell; and this in turn may explain why the early writers make almost no profound psychological or philosophical comments about wilderness–that is, about their experience in it and what this experience might mean for a civilized inheritor of the European and Judaeo-Christian tradition. There are only intimations. It is as if the wild had not been deeply enough entered, or assimilated; the observer remained apart, bringing back ever more detailed and precise reports, until finally almost everything knowable had been accounted for in the picture, but still the complete engagement had not been made.

In the writings of John Muir (1838–1914), the body comes alive to the wilderness, and with this important, almost baptismal step (to use one of Muir's metaphors), the western nature essay reaches toward maturity and significance. The intellectual response to nature is not neglected-in fact, Muir's first published nature essays were scientific in nature and grew out of a geological controversy–but it is placed within a context of physical and emotional immersion into the wild. Muir's great contribution to western writing was to bring the holistic or participant experience alive, but at the same time not to relegate the intellect and science to vagueness. Muir's writing, at its best, vivifies science.

John Muir's emergence as a mature thinker–better said, his emergence into a radical, perhaps historically important consciousness–began in the summer of 1869, his "first summer in the Sierra." Thirty-one years old, a man without a career except, as he said, to walk God's wilderness, Muir had been offered a more or less supernumerary job as a sheepherder-supervisor. The band of two thousand sheep trailed from the hot foothills up into the forests and finally to the edge of the little-known alpine zone, and as the summer developed, Muir rapidly opened out into an ecstatic, wakeful relationship with the wild mountains, a feeling of deep continuity which would be the basis of his understanding of geological processes, his compassion for all life forms, and his subsequent explanation and defense of all that was wild. His eventual command of a first-rate prose style, which in its flexibility and emphasis upon the activity of nature could evoke some of the excitement of a wilderness experience, was also rooted in the awakening of 1869. That summer was the key, and Muir was aware that something dramatic was happening to him. On July 7, he wrote in his journal,

Never while anything is left of me shall this first camp be forgotten. It has fairly grown into me, not merely as memory pictures, but as part and parcel of mind and body alike. The deep hopper-like hollow, with its majestic trees through which all the wonderful nights the stars poured their beauty. The flowery wildness of the high steep slope toward Brown's Flat, and its bloom-fragrance descending at the close of the still days. . . . The great sun-gold noons, the alabaster cloud-mountains, the landscape beaming with consciousness like the face of a god. 34
Two weeks later, the emergence continued.
No pain here, no dull empty hours, no fear of the past, no fear of the future. These blessed mountains are so compactly filled with God's beauty, no petty personal hope or experience has room to be. Drinking this champagne water is pure pleasure, so is breathing the living air, and every movement of the limbs is pleasure, while the whole body seems to feel beauty when exposed to it as it feels a campfire or sunshine, entering not by the eyes alone, but equally through all one's flesh like radiant heat, making a passionate ecstatic pleasure-glow not explainable. 35

The traditionally limited and separate point of consciousness of Western civilization is here being transcended. A larger, apparently limitless identity is emerging–two years later, Muir wrote, "the solid contents of a human soul is the whole world" 36 –which became the root of his life and thought. From this new viewpoint, Muir was able to see or intuit natural facts and relationships that other, perhaps better trained, observers had not noticed. For example, he proved that glaciers had played an important role in the formation of Yosemite Valley, a fact that both Clarence King and Josiah Whitney of the California Survey had missed. The important point for Muir's own development, however, was that his intellect was enabled and enlivened by his inner feeling for relationship and process, his sharing with the mountains, as it were, one body. He literally felt the mountains, lying on boulders in order to sense their grain and possible cleavage lines, sleeping out tentless where night happened to overtake him, climbing numerous peaks, wading streams, and going almost foodless, so that what he called his "loving study" could proceed with maximum, filterless perception. Muir's studies and experiences in the Sierra suggest a revolutionary transformation or eversion of consciousness, into a state of mind which accords with the physical interweavings and mutualisms of ecology.

The writing which proceeded from this vision is characteristically vivid, imagistically. But it suggests a life within the pictures by paying attention, above all, to movement and to interconnection. There are few static scenes in Muir's books: always the wind is making the flower stalks nod or bending the trees in great arcs, and the streams are catching at the downhanging grass stems along the bank; when the sun rose over the Grand Canyon, Muir saw it "stinging" the uppermost cliffs. Even in his later, comparatively not so active works, such as The Yosemite (1912), the sense of movement is basic, as in his description of the giant sequoia:

The immensely strong, stately shafts are free of limbs for one hundred and fifty feet or so. The large limbs reach out with equal boldness in every direction, showing no weather side, and no other tree has foliage so densely massed, so finely molded in outline and so perfectly subordinated to an ideal type. A particularly knotty, angular, ungovernable-looking branch, from five to seven feet in diameter and perhaps a thousand years old, may occasionally be seen pushing out from the trunk as if determined to break across the bounds of the regular curve, but like all the others it dissolves in bosses of branchlets and sprays as soon as the general outline is approached. 37

With prose that modelled activity and the interpenetration of subject and object, Muir was able to arouse a caring response on the part of his readers. In The Mountains of California (1894), Our National Parks (1901), My First Summer in the Sierra (1911), and in the posthumously published Travels in Alaska (1917) and Steep Trails (1918), the attempt was to express a physical-spiritual joyfulness, an engaged awareness which could inspire ecological sensitivity. Importantly, Muir's initial effect was contemporaneous with the closing of the frontier, and perhaps indicated the acceptability of a new style of thought. His fundamental recognition was that the world is a living system, not an endless flat plane consisting of resources which may be used up, serially, by an always-advancing people. Nor was the world, for Muir, an object of any sort, not even the "pretty" sort. His is thus the first post-frontier mind in western literature. He had the science of the great surveyors, but he went the necessary step further to make himself completely at home in the mountains, and to become capable of ecological vision.

We are governed more than we know, and most when we are wildest. Plants, animals, and stars are all kept in place, bridled along appointed ways, with one another, and through the midst of one another. . . . 38

Mary Austin (1868–1934) had a similar attitude toward nature, though perhaps more forthrightly mystical and less scientific than Muir's. She realized the importance of the territory he had opened up, and paid him tribute in her first book, The Land of Little Rain (1903); by the end of her career, she had made a significant extension of the Muir line, as it might be called, by prophesying that the consciousness of the unity of mind and nature would become not just a literary theme but the ground of an entirely new culture. This would happen, according to Austin, in the American West. She also paid a good deal of attention to Native Americans and their philosophies, an area in which Muir had small interest, and she absolutely relished the details of folk life on the land, finding in native and folk adaptations instances of ecological wisdom. Her essays on natural history, found in The Land of Little Rain, The Flock (1906), California, the Land of the Sun (1914), and The Land of Journeys' Ending (1924), are distinguished by a leisurely, spacious, and at the same time almost microscopic attention. There is no hurry in Mary Austin's books. Time and the seasons will come around again; the flocks will be moved a few miles a day, toward the lowlands in fall, toward the mountains in spring; the dust devils way out on the alkali flats will whirl again when the winds are right. The chief thing is to be alert, unhurried, ready, because vision and the "Deep-self," her term for the ultimate consciousness that one's self and the environment are not two, may awaken at any time.

The primary experience had first come to Mary Austin at the age of six, near her family home in Illinois. Fifteen years later, while riding in the hills near her brother's homestead in California, she was reconfirmed in the fundamental, mystical center which was to inspire all of her writings. As her third-person autobiography, Earth Horizon ( 1932), has it,

It was a dry April, but not entirely barren; mirages multiplied on every hand, white borage came out and blue nemophilia; where the runoff of the infrequent rains collected in hollows, blue lupine sprang up as though pieces of the sky had fallen. On a morning Mary was walking down one of these, leading her horse, and suddenly she was aware of poppies coming up singly through the tawny, crystal-sanded soil, thin, piercing orange-colored flames. And then the warm pervasive sweetness of ultimate reality, the reality first encountered so long ago under the walnut tree. Never to go away again; never to be completely out of call. . . . 39

Her resolute holding to this center, and to a degree her promotion of it in her role as a literary figure later in life, served to isolate Austin somewhat and perhaps helped make her life more difficult. But her chosen path also allowed her to concentrate and to see. Her neighbors in Independence, California, after the publication of The Land of Little Rain, could not understand how she drew so much out of the apparent barrenness of an ordinary, vacant field next to her house. But Austin, who unlike most of her townsmen was not looking for gold or planning to move water, had time to look meditatively and to see the riches in "My Neighbor's Field." She sat out on the mesas in the same way, at the edge of the wilderness desert, until the dry and seemingly hostile landscape became for her a land of abundance. The ecological givens of place were not irritations to her but matter for the opening of vision. She spent hours of outdoor stillness to get the one right word for the dry foothills, and got it, to her satisfaction: "puckery." Her great contribution to the western essay is just such a distillation and purity of image.

To Austin, however, especially in later years, this vision was not solely imagistic but also had historical, analytic, and prophetic aspects. When invited to a conference of prominent southwesterners in 1927, on the subject of the proposed Boulder Dam, she alone was outspoken against it. Man should be learning and adapting to natural conditions, not rushing to change them. Austin's case against dams would move no "realists," probably, but she believed that time and the gradual influence of the land and its native people upon the incoming races, the water movers, would prove her right. The Southwest, she thought, the environment itself, operating "subtly below all other types of adjustive experience," will work to produce a new, land-harmonious culture. It will be, she said, "the next great and fructifying world culture." 40 This future, for Mary Austin, begins in any moment of true seeing. To an alert mind, any natural object will do; one could be walking casually through a stand of junipers, surely an ordinary environment, and quite suddenly touch the core of things. Not one of all the ways by which a tree strikes freshly on your observation,–with a greener flush, with stiffened needles, or slight alterations of the axis of the growing shoots, accounts for this flash of mutual awareness. You walk a stranger in a vegetating world; then with an inward click the shutter of some profounder level of consciousness uncloses and admits you to sentience of the mounting sap. 41

Aesthetic communion is also the heart of the work of John Charles Van Dyke (1856–1932), a New Jersey librarian and professor of art history at Rutgers College, whose experience in the West began in Minnesota in 1868 and encompassed long stays in Montana, Arizona, and California. Again, as with Muir and Austin, the opening of perception to a specific environment led eventually to an ecological vision and a critique of civiliza-tion. In Nature for Its Own Sake (1898), The Desert (1904), The Mountain (1916), The Grand Canyon of the Colorado (1920), and The Open Spaces (1922), which represent Van Dyke's western writings, he covers nearly all of the subjects of the western nature essay, and in his firm, Muirian, antianthropocentric position, strikes the western essay's major tone perfectly. Though he did not overtly promote or even assert a mystical consciousness, as did Mary Austin, there is evidence of Van Dyke's having transcended the limited, egoistic view. Speaking of the Grand Canyon, he said, "And we, if we would understand the Canyon, must largely eliminate the human element of it. It is insignificant." 42 The ideal point of view, apparently, is Mind, not ego.

The utilitarians look at it [the Colorado River] and perhaps wonder how they can harness it, make it turn wheels, generate electricity, or irrigate the earth. It now serves no "purpose" and is quite "useless"–useless to man, who still cherishes the idea that the world was made exclusively for him. 43

The origin of the larger vision is unmediated aesthetic experience– simply being aware of light, rain clouds, color in fog banks, the lightness and drift of clouds, the roll of the divides and swales–to list a few of the topic headings in Nature for Its Own Sake. Van Dyke teaches awareness by narrative example, for instance in the opening chapter of The Mountain, an autobiographical account of riding across the high plains of Montana toward the Rockies, by noticing the air becoming thinner and the light brighter. More often, he gives minutely detailed lectures in which the usually-passed-over beauties of nature are set up for notice. The attention to detail is extraordinary, almost dissective, and yet the sense of the whole is kept alive, as a kind of diapason, by the fact that all of the scenes and details are, after all, being known by one careful, meditative consciousness. The feeling of interested participation is great, and is one of the positive beauties of Van Dyke's writing.

Van Dyke also directly attacked what he considered to be false approaches to nature, for example "fancy" and the "pathetic fallacy." Like Clarence Dutton, he thought a stripped, illusionless and traditionless perception, unfiltered by any predisposition to dualistic judgments, was the only means by which the wild could be apprehended.

. . . . Nature neither rejoices in the life nor sorrows in the death. She is neither good nor evil; she is only a great law of change that passeth understanding. 44

The fault is not in the subject [desert wildlife]. It is not vulgar or ugly. The trouble is that we perhaps have not the proper angle of vision. If we understood all, we should admire all. 45

If we could but rid ourselves of the false ideas, which, taken en masse, are called education, we should know that there is nothing ugly under the sun, save that which comes from human distortion. 46

The ideal of a direct and perfected awareness is a major theme in the western nature essay, still very much alive. It was clearly John Van Dyke's guiding thought, and it led him more and more to wilderness, as an environment conducive to such perception. "The great spaces of the wilderness have a quality of beauty about them that no panorama of civilized lands can equal or even suggest," 47 he wrote in The Mountain. This beauty was for Van Dyke not an object but a personal, mind-awakening renewal. "He [the climber of a wilderness mountain] is back to a primitive faith from which he never should have wandered." 48 In his autobiography, The Open Spaces, he describes sleeping out in the arid, spacious West, and summarizes his thought: "What a strange feeling, sleeping under the wide sky, that you belong only to the universe. You are back to your habitat, to your original environment, to your native heritage." 49 Anything less than this was, for Van Dyke, civilized and partial, and vision-obstructing.

Muir, Austin, and Van Dyke represent the flowering of the post-frontier vision. But it should not be supposed that the closing of the frontier automatically or widely conferred such an outlook. Many writers simply exploited the West as a tourist's curiosity–some continue to do so. Some appeared to approach the level of sensitivity of the three authors cited, but then seemed to fall short. George Wharton James (1858–1923), for example, who praised the curative powers of the southwestern deserts in his best book, The Wonders of the Colorado Desert (1906), and gave tours of the West in such works as California, Romantic and Beautiful (1914) and Utah, Land of Blossoming Valleys (1922), was apparently greatly attracted to the wildness of mountain and desert which Muir and Austin had found so meaningful. Indeed, James found a personal regeneration in the desert after losing, in a scandal, his former career as a minister. But he wrote quickly and excitedly, as a promoter or converter rather than one who had rested deeply in the self-nature continuum. He described himself as having been "`on the jump' for many years," indicating perhaps the nature of his relationship with any one particular place. 50 Even so, there are passages in his works, for example the last several pages of The Wonders of the Colorado Desert, which intimate a great deal.

    The desert is nothing if it is not sincere. It is sincere to brutality. Open, bare, exposed it lies, and yet it is not dead. It is alive with a fiery aliveness that takes you into its heart and compels you to be as it is, open, frank, sincere. 51

The lure of the desert, according to James, is that it can deepen one who will cross the line into wildness and revoke all former claims. "There is no knowing of self in the whirl of the cities," 52 he asserts. But the boosterism in James suggests a certain incompleteness. For him, the underground aquifers in the desert were, simply, "inexhaustible," and should be tapped. Where John Van Dyke had argued that "the deserts should never be reclaimed. They are the breathing-space of the West and should be preserved forever," 53 James rather trippingly stated, in summarizing vast water projects in Utah, "Thus the good work of irrigation goes on." 54 Having it both ways– the desert is good, and reclaiming the desert is good–James shows a positive attitude. But it is legitimate to ask if he was thinking through the matter of aridity completely.

Authors from California and the southwestern deserts dominate the western nature essay from the close of the frontier onward into our time. Among the few good writers dealing with the interior, mountain West was Enos Mills (1870–1922), a philosophical follower of John Muir and a Colorado mountaineer of very extensive experience in the wild. Mills's debt to Muir is clearly great–he dedicated his first major book to Muir, quoted him at length when the scene under discussion apparently seemed to require an extra dimension in the writing (see Mills's Your National Parks [1917], for example), and even used several Muirisms in something very like their original form–but he also had a great fund of personal experience, particularly with animals, which enabled him to make a unique contribution to western literature. In Wild Life on the Rockies ( 1909), The Spell of the Rockies (1911), and Wild Animal Homesteads ( 1923), the sense of being involved with myriad life forms–beaver, mountain lions, wolves, coyotes, skunks, grizzlies, and a host of birds–is particularly strong. From 1886 on, Mills spent a great deal of time in lone mountain rambles, having as a base camp a small cabin near Longs Peak, and he came to know the Rockies with a lover's intimacy. He was a true dweller. Where Henry Thoreau had referred to himself humorously as an inspector of snowstorms, Mills actually had a government job in precisely that line, walking the continental divide to measure snow depth. "I lived intensely through ten strong days and nights, and gave to my life new and rare experiences," he said of one inspection trip. "I went beyond the trails and visited the silent places alone." 55

The demands of winter travel in the wilderness helped to develop in Mills a remarkable hardiness and insouciance, which in his accounts often reaches toward the philosophical dimension. His writing also shows a profound understanding of territory, in the animal-behavior sense: the absolute interdependence of animal and habitat. Walking quietly, alone, and sitting still in concealment for long periods, he observed intensely, and upon occasion attempted to take part in, the often dramatic scenes unfolding around him. He also entered the animals' home life, and in a sense did make it his own by writing with emotion for his home ground and his wild neighbors. This connection, like his hardiness, suggests much, philosophically. But Mills, a self-educated man, was reticent about deep interpretations, seeming to pass them off in almost formulaic sentences. ("Silence sounds rhythmic to all, and attunes all minds to the strange message, the rhapsody of the universe,"he said once, for example, speaking of the quiet of the high country.) 56 Chiefly, he seemed content to let his adventures speak for themselves. His narratives showed the wilderness as a friendly place, by and large, where night and winter held no genuine terrors. In comparison to his contemporaries Muir, Austin, and Van Dyke, Mills may seem less intellectual, perhaps, less in command of the cultural references of Western civilization; but his fearless absorption into the wild gives his writing original life and a vivid sense of place. He was at home in the mountains.

Mills was also, like all twentieth-century nature writers, disturbed by the swift passing of large-scale wilderness. Like John Muir (indeed, perhaps partly because of a youthful meeting with Muir), he entered the political arena on the side of the shrinking wild, using his writing to awaken readers to the awesomeness of their moment in history. In an explosive change occupying only a few decades, man had become capable of transforming the planet, and of losing sight of the most fundamental connections. In Your National Parks, Mills wrote,

Once, like a web of joy, trails overspread all the wild gardens of the earth. The long trail is gone, and most others are cut to pieces and ruined. The few broken remnants are but little used. 57
III. THE TWENTIETH-CENTURY CRISIS

If we realize that the change Mills lamented had occurred in something less than a century–counting from the expedition to the eastern edge of the Rockies by Major Stephen Long in 1820, to the publication of Mills's major Rocky Mountain books between 1909 and 1923–we are then acquainted with the chief thematic element in the modern western nature essay. As in Mills's own career, the wonder and the deep enjoyment of nature are encountered, and given a bittersweet flavor, by the rising feeling that something, in the broad historical sense, is going rapidly and vastly wrong. Loss, particularly the loss of wilderness, casts a sundown light over much of the nature literature of the modern time. Yet the wild continues to be upheld, at times apparently almost in desperation, as the archetype of harmony.

The importance of wilderness may be seen clearly in the work of Aldo Leopold (1886–1948), Robert Marshall (1901–1939) and Olaus Murie (1889–1963). All three had government careers in the field of natural resources, in the courses of which they worked successfully for wilderness protection or for "wild" solutions to ecological problems, all had deep personal experience of wilderness in several locations, mostly in Alaska and the West, and each wrote influential essays on the wild. Leopold was perhaps the most explicitly philosophical of the three, in terms of speaking to the general human condition–his formulation of the "Land Ethic" is one of the truly new and important philosophical statements of the twentieth century–but Marshall too addressed the central conflict of our time, and was especially penetrating on the psychological necessity of wilderness. Olaus Murie seemed, by comparison, to avoid the general or portentous, but the practicality and simplicity of his writing seem to bespeak the wild itself, and a life in touch with it.

Leopold, who had a Master of Forestry degree from Yale, came to the West in 1909 and spent the next fifteen years as a forest ranger in Arizona and New Mexico, with time off for trips into the wilder parts of northern Mexico. In the West, he came to know wildland as something more important than good hunting territory. A 1922 trip to the delta of the Colorado River, in particular, provided him with images of freshness, abundance, and order, images of seemingly universal import; this trip may be seen as part of the necessary foreground for the philosophy of "ecological conscience" he later developed. By 1924 he was campaigning within the Forest Service for a policy of wilderness protection; by 1933, with his textbook, Game Management, he was promoting the idea of the biota as a community or system, an enormously complex system which included man. He later termed the ecological concept of system "the outstanding scientific discovery of the twentieth century." 58 System, which John Muir too had posited as early as 1875, is a revolutionary theory, and it may be seen, in part, as a contribution of thinkers whose primary experience of nature was in the American West. On the practical surface of things, consciousness of system can prevent game-hogging and the over-harvest of timber, two frontier-era practices Leopold worked against in his official capacities; on a deeper level, the realization of system is capable of erasing or at least mitigating the epistemological and ethical split of man from the rest of nature, the separation which has dominated Western thought and kept it partial for at least two millennia. For Leopold, as he expressed it in his best-known work, A Sand County Almanac (1949), the extension of system into ethical behavior and indeed into the whole of the man-nature relationship was the next neces sary stage in human evolution. We must recast our whole thinking and feeling about nature, and learn to "think like a mountain." Thinking like a mountain, after decades of observation and a slow, practical enlargement of thought, Leopold gave to philosophy a classic statement: "A thing is right when it tends to preserve the integrity, stability, and beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when it tends otherwise." 59

As Leopold saw it, wilderness is system, the original, the ground of being. It is also the "base line" of data which gives, or could give, reference to all human activity. But it is possible, Leopold thought, for man to so encapsulate himself within the industrial pattern that he can forget wilderness–which is to say, forget where his industry came from, and in the end essentially forget himself, becoming a caricature of alienation. Ability to see the cultural value of wilderness boils down, in the last analysis, to a question of intellectual humility. The shallowminded modern who has lost his rootage in the land assumes that he has already discovered what is important; it is such who prate of empires, political or economic, that will last a thousand years. 60

Robert Marshall, who along with Leopold and Murie and others founded the Wilderness Society in 1935, once wrote that he grew up regretting he had not been born in the time of the great explorations–of Lewis and Clark, for example. However, he went on to make four long expeditions into the Alaskan wilderness, where he lived to a degree the "Lewis and Clark" life, and out of this experience, coupled with his twentiethcentury consciousness, he gave modern expression to the psychological and spiritual value of wilderness for civilized man. Marshall made effective what might be termed the "wilderness corollary" to the Turner or frontier thesis of history: if the frontier had indeed been important in shaping American institutions and ideals, and most especially the self-reliant American psychology, then it behooves us in the contemporary age to preserve some land (large tracts, in fact) in a wild condition. Otherwise, in Marshall's view, we might degenerate into the nervous little man of the industrial dystopia, looking to vast social identities and national confrontations for a release from the tepidity of his existence.

In Arctic Wilderness (1956), Marshall described a world of pioneer testing and adventure. He forded rivers, climbed mountains, endured extremes of weather, and thrilled to the opening of consciousness as he beheld range upon range of wilderness mountains. He also kept careful records of tree distribution (he held a Ph.D. in plant physiology), made accurate maps, and studied the Eskimo culture with remarkable thoroughness, his entire Alaskan experience in essence suggesting a nineteenth-century journey by a man of science into the western wilderness. The important addition was that Marshall also had the twentieth-century perspective and was far from reveling in primitivism or nostalgia.

In 1930, in an influential essay which appeared in The Scientific Monthly, Marshall summarized what he had learned and thought about in the wilderness. The essay is comprehensive and historical: America stands at an important moment, and must decide whether to keep its frontier–its West–alive in anything greater than token size. To make the decision by "deliberate rationality," as Marshall recommends, the country must know what wilderness was and is, must know its effects, and must see how its own character has been molded by the existence of the wild. All of these topics are covered in the essay, in such a way that finally a choice between two fundamentally different kinds of life presents itself: on the one hand is the "terrible neural tension of modern existence"; on the other, a breakthrough to psychological fulfillment:

Adventure, whether physical or mental, implies breaking into unpenetrated ground, venturing beyond the boundary of normal aptitude, extending oneself to the limit of capacity, courageously facing peril. Life without the chance for such exertions would be for many persons a dreary game, scarcely bearable in its horrible banality. 61

Olaus Murie, like Leopold and Marshall a trained scientist, also saw the upshot of the wilderness issue, and fought for wildland preservation for many years, first as a nonconformist within the Biological Survey and later as Director of The Wilderness Society, but his writings do not stress the grand vision so much as the particular, telling experience. In Wapiti Wilderness (1966), a book co-authored by his wife, Margaret E. Murie, and in Journeys to the Far North (1973), Murie writes narratively of the wilderness base. He depicts wildlife adventures and camp life in Wyoming, Alaska, Labrador, and the Hudson Bay country with obvious feeling for the wild but also, usually, with a kind of respectful reticence, as if the wilderness would always be–should always be–beyond words. He occasionally lets go:

Now, by the alchemy of moonlight, all was transformed into a soft duotone of black and silver. The tiny meadow lay silver bright, overlaid with a dark tracery of moon shadows from the pines. On the forest floor about our tent lay the same network of shadowy limbs and twigs, while in the deeper woods a few gleams penetrated in scattered flecks that silvered the underbrush. We scarcely broke the silence with speech. 62

Few people in our time have had anything like the field experience of Murie, and the writing in The Elk of North America (1951) and A Field Guide to Animal Trucks (1954) is solid, experiential, and radiant with the implications of wilderness experience.

Over a rise I came upon a depression, a green meadow, in the middle of which was a pond. A band of elk was just then coming in to water. As they came near, some of the eager ones rushed on ahead, jumped into the water, and romped along in the shallows, splashing the water, shaking their heads, and hopping with the same joy that a group of children go splashing into the water at a beach. 63

Adolph Murie (1899–1973), the younger brother of Olaus and also a government biologist for many years, likewise enjoyed a great breadth of field experience, some of the best episodes of which are described in A Naturalist in Alaska (1961). Like his brother, Adolph Murie was keenly aware of the larger issues of civilization and wilderness–A Naturalist, for example, opens with a description of Alaska as "a land where the individual is not yet swamped by numbers"–but also in the Murie manner he concentrated upon the animal life around him, so that the implications, for example in the adjustments of arctic animals to the boom and bust cycles of population typical of the north, are understated and are discovered by the reader, rather than preached at him. The same can be said of two wellknown government reports that Adolph Murie wrote, The Ecology of the Coyote in the Yellowstone (1940) and The Wolves of Mount McKinley (1944), the latter a landmark study in terms of science and perhaps one of the few examples of a twentieth-century government document's approaching literary quality. That The Wolves transcends mere technical writing may be shown by Murie's description of an evening's observations:

On May 31 I left the lookout at 8:30 p. m. since the wolves seemed, after some indications of departure, to have settled down again. But as I looked back from the river bar on my way to camp I saw the two blacks and the two gray males assembled on the skyline, wagging their tails and frisking together. There they all howled, and while they howled the gray female galloped up from the den 100 yards and joined them. She was greeted with energetic tail wagging and general good feeling. Then the vigorous actions came to an end, and five muzzles pointed skyward. Their howling floated softly across the tundra. 64

Again, as in many episodes in the writings of his brother Olaus, the implication is of a profound connection having been made, and the necessity for calm awareness and patience, so that one may be ready for such moments when by grace they occur.

According to J. Frank Dobie (1888–1964), who along with Roy Bedichek (1878–1959) and John Graves (1920–) might be said to constitute the Texas school of natural history writing, such awareness, schooled in the outdoors, is very often a mark of great literature. What endures as quality, in writing, comes from the land and keeps its reference to the land. But this is not a narrowness, for in knowing a place truly, with respect, a good writer escapes provincialism and begins to model nothing less than excellence of mind. The commercialized or mass-industrial type of mind, lost to the outdoors and the land, Dobie anathematized with the adjective "jukebox." In Guide to the Life and Literature of the Southwest, first published in 1942, updated in 1952, and many times reprinted, Dobie set forth his naturalistic standards and revealed at the same time an uncommon range. He was not only a "natural historian" of letters, but a skilled folklorist and a student of animal life, and a commentator on humanity-in-general who believed above all in the conclusive importance of environment. One of the few western nature writers who was also a professor, Dobie affected to scorn what he termed "our institutions of so-called higher learning," 65 but in fact (and almost singlehandedly for a long time) he worked to make the study of western regional literature respectable in the university.

His major ventures into natural history are The Longhorns (1941), The Voice of the Coyote (1949), The Mustangs (1952), and Rattlesnakes (1965). These books are marked by a direct and informal style and a native skepticism of things urban, new, highly publicized, or mechanical. The personality and belief of Dobie–belief in the land, and in life lived close to it– make of the books' typical structure, a montage of folklore, scientific observation, personal experience, and side-cutting commentary on modernisms of all kinds, an informed whole. His stated philosophy is that "the coyote's howl is more tonic than all theories about nature," 66 but his art and thoroughness in presenting that howl assure that his reader will nevertheless absorb a complete theory of nature–better said, a vision of nature. The books on the coyote and the rattlesnake are illustrative. These two are hardhunted animals, thus not the usual subjects of leisurely observation, and furthermore they are surrounded by myths of several kinds from outright legend to profound religious symbolism. Perhaps Dobie chose them as subjects because to come to terms with these species, to know them truly, one must discern and then see through a great deal of human conception and projection. Under Dobie's guidance, to study the coyote and the rattler is to study humanity and its life with and against nature, and then suddenly, if Dobie's persuasion has worked, to realize respect and compassion for the animals themselves, as they are, living their lives. In the end, one may share in the ecologist's broad-gauge consciousness. Dobie saw things as Aldo Leopold did, or John Muir, but he expressed that vision in terms of a countryman's feisty allegiances.

When I remember their [coyotes'] derision of campfires, their salutes to the rising moon, their kinship cries to stars and silences, I am ten thousand times more grateful to them than I am to the makers of the blaring radios and ringing telephones that index the high standard of American living. 67

Dobie's friend Roy Bedichek, to whom he paid his highest compliment–"He was an earth man" 68 –was also, like Dobie, an autodidact of amazing range and depth. His great theme through three "nature" books– Adventures with a Texas Naturalist (1947), Karánkaway Country (1950), and The Sense of Smell (1960)–was the same as Dobie's, and indeed is one of the foundations of all modern nature writing: man and nature, contrary to the economics, politics, and technology of our recently flourishing scene, are one system; to know this unity as a personal realization and not merely as a set of facts is the basis of right living. Both Dobie and Bedichek argue that to earn such a knowledge is not to engage in primitivism but rather to extend an ancient and honorable human insight. Their scholarship is aimed at connection.

There are some interesting differences. Bedichek is not so merry and mischievous as Dobie, his style not so "down-home." His vision of our time seems more melancholy. He had been vouchsafed a profound experience of nature, an innocent ten-year-old boy's epiphany, when riding his pony across a meadowlark-filled Texas grassland early one morning in 1888:

My whole world was green and blue, except for the flowers and the bicolored breasts of those proud and joyous birds. And the chorus was also green and blue out of which shot skyward bursts of individual song, like the brilliant flowers springing up here and there in sudden rapture out of the communal happiness of the level, grassy meadow, bordered by trees of deeper green.

My pony became quiet at last and I know not how long I sat and looked and listened, consciousness merged in the general ecstasy of that April morning. 69

This touchstone experience of transcendence marked Bedichek's life. He refers to it, obliquely, as a "dedication." It was apparently thus the root of his fierce support of wildlife, and of his hope, later, that others of the modern time could somehow, as he did, feel the great connection. His writings seem to indicate that such a man must only wonder, perhaps, and become as the years go by more than a little saddened, at the general and seemingly accepted alienation which is everywhere created as the upshot of progress. Of the fragile and precious coast where the last whooping cranes winter, Bedichek wrote in 1950:

But worst of all, and as a final debauchment of these virgin marshes, are the oil "developers" pushing in for the final squeeze, making their seismographic surveys, which involve earth jarring, subterranean peals of artificial thunder as well as terrific underwater explosions, occasionally blowing out a deadly "oil slick" to mess up the waters of a bay-deadly, I mean to all avian life. 70

Karánkaway Country, from which this passage comes, is marked by a subtly increasing anger, as the book enlarges from its original concern with the Gulf Coast between Corpus Christi and Galveston to include almost all of the watersheds of Texas. All is connected, ecologically: Bedichek cannot discuss the silt that is choking the mouths of the rivers, and ruining the shellfish grounds, without addressing the upstream problems; and here one must confront the builders of dams–to find that the bigger the project, the more likely are its promoters to know nothing about the decisive subtleties of ecology, or its interlocking of all things.

However, sacred rage is only one of Bedichek's voices. Just as often, he is meditative, curious, studiously reporting his own experience with wildlife or that of others he has learned about, venturing interpretations, appearing to seek always a more intimate view, a new or closer understanding of nature that may prefigure communion. Adventures with a Texas Naturalist is slow-paced, Thoreauvian. It is a series of carefully-thought-out meditations on diversity and stability, the keys to the wild. The main theme, and the standard for analysis, is the health that naturally obtains before the simplifications wrought by civilization–by some types of civilization. This health is indicated persuasively by Bedichek's own joy of perception: seeing a male vermilion flycatcher displaying for the female his fiery hue, or a small snake patiently swallowing a frog of twice its own diameter, or a fallen sweet gum tree, disintegrating amid a riot of new-grown flowers and nectar-seeking insects. His tone is vital and interested, carrying the feeling that whatever one may know or learn, there is always more.

First with Goodbye to a River (1960), which has earned a place as a minor classic in western letters, then with an essay entitled "You Ain't Seen Nothing Yet" in the Sierra Club's book, The Water Hustlers (1971), and more recently with Hard Scrabble: Observations on a Patch of Land (1974), and Texas Heartland (1975), John Graves has moved toward the front rank of contemporary western nature writers. In the tradition of Dobie and Bedichek, his works are founded on research into the folklore and history of his chosen place–north-central Texas–on a sound ecological sense, and in recent years on a landsman's working connection with his home ground. Graves is an amateur naturalist, a farmer after the style of Aldo Leopold (having purchased a rundown homestead and attempted to restore it to health, as Leopold did with his "Sand County," Wisconsin, farm), a writer and professor, and a contemplative. His is a voice of the edgelands, rural country rather than the deep wilderness, and in this too he resembles his two great Texas forebears. Typically in his writings, Graves drifts in a canoe down a river, sits before a campfire, or lays stonework at his place, thinks of others who have done these things before him, thinks of his reasons for doing what he is doing, notes with sharp perception the life that is going on around him, and gradually is moved to deeper reflection, understated almost always, but provocative and widely applicable. It is the general manner of Gilbert White, or Thoreau, or Henry Beston. The subject matter is practical consciousness awakening to its revelatory but heretofore ordinary surroundings and daily life.

Goodbye to a River, as the title implies, is an elegy–for a section of the Brazos River about to be dammed, for a Texas that once was and the youth that was lived there, for many good things that seem to be going under. However, the book does not read in that summary fashion, for Graves's sentences and thoughts are not predictable. His sympathies are plain, but the expression is not righteous or programmatic. He makes mistakes and admits them, surprises himself, and seems to be discovering what he is writing about as he goes along. As his canoe drops down the Brazos he resolves not to shoot any more ducks except in real need. Hard upon this promise, "Three green-winged teal from a big flock of them turned and bulleted back past me very high. I led the lowest one by perhaps twelve feet and fired. . . ." 71

This projection of a fallible persona, pretty much the mode throughout his writings, seems to indicate that Graves is realistically in touch with his own membership in the modern scene. He says in Hard Scrabble that he "does not seek to grind large axes or to give large answers." 72 Thus there is a more complex, or perhaps more mixed, consciousness than that projected in the books of Dobie or Bedichek. But Graves's reticence is severely tested on occasion. In The Water Hustlers, for example, after giving a restrained but telling analysis of one of the more egregiously anti-ecological proposals in history (the "Texas Water Plan" of 1968), he struggles with the urge to fight fire with fire. "One would just as soon not wax shrill and indignant and earnest, there being so much shrillness all around us as it is, and so much Christlike earnestness." 73 Sweet reason is best. But two pages later, as if finally giving in to the joy and freedom of polemic, he appears to relish the delivery of an acidly phrased series of rhetorical questions, the upshot of which is that modern, technology-dependent life may become, quite logically and unknowingly, monstrous.

A persistent theme in the western nature essay has been the apparent need for civilized man, when confronting the wild, to develop clearer ways of seeing and a clearer consciousness in general. Several western writers have stated explicitly that wilderness on the scale of the West called for a new approach or a new mentality; a number of others, upon entering the West, doubted in print that their language–that is, we may say by extension, the whole set of paradigms they brought with them–could adequately convey what they were seeing. There were new ranges of experience here. It is as if the strangeness of immense space, the frequent feeling of removal from traditional props, and the immersion into the moving, natural world of wildlife illuminated the European-derived mind somewhat, with the effect that its conventional, verbal, dualistic nature became apparent to itself. But what then? The great challenge, which perhaps is fudged by writers who fall back onto the "picturesque" or "sublime" modes, but is bravely attempted by some few of a more daring cast of personality–Muir, say, or Austin–is to break through the received frames of reference into something less rigidly dualistic and alienated, something wilder. Muir and Austin found a participative, that is, transcendental or "mystical" approach congenial. Not many have followed these two all the way, but they indicate forthrightly a general path upon which most have at least stepped.

Precisely this theme of mind seemed to preoccupy John Steinbeck on his one venture into natural history, a biological expedition to the Gulf of California in 1940 with his mentor Edward Ricketts. As is shown in the literary record of that trip, The Log from the Sea of Cortez (1941; 1951), when Ricketts and Steinbeck came to the extensive wilderness of Baja California, and plunged into the swarming life of its tide pools, their shipboard and campfire reflections increasingly turned on what was proper, accurate thinking, and what was not. It is as if the wilderness inspired them with a certain urgency to sort through accumulated patterns of consciousness, rejecting all that was wishful or false, looking for bedrock truths. The upshot of their reflections, given in a chapter entitled "March 24, Easter Sunday," which was apparently written originally by Ricketts, 74 is that "teleological thinking," the goal-oriented, emotionally attached and reductionist mentality which dominates Western civilization, is something to be outgrown. "Non-teleological thinking," by contrast, which does not break down the totality of things into simplified, linear cause-and-effect but instead concentrates upon what is and attempts to "live into" it, is desirable, because it is open to the ecological, relational nature of nature. Teleological thinking is frontier-minded thinking, in which the self is an entity confronting a separate world of objects. Non-teleological thinking, ultimately, foregoes projections and undue attachment to self and becomes, the authors argue, "deeper and participating, possibly encompassing the Oriental concept of being." 75

We see Steinbeck and Ricketts here edging into the "perennial philosophy," to use the phrase of Leibniz and of Aldous Huxley, and in American western terms, into what might be called the wilderness mind. As they traveled deeper into the wild, and measured their own minds by its implicit standard, they came closer to a holistic, Muirian point of view. The movement is so widely shared among western writers that it almost seems inevitable: go into the wild; start to think "wildly." Finally, in the "Introduction" to the Log, and as a fitting epigraph to a book written at the dawn of the world-war, world-technology era, Steinbeck recorded a powerful, wilderness-inspired insight: We take a tiny colony of soft corals from a rock in a little water world. And that isn't terribly important to the tide pool. Fifty miles away the Japanese shrimp boats are dredging with overlapping scoops, bringing up tons of shrimps, rapidly destroying the species so that it may never come back, and with the species destroying the ecological balance of the whole region. That isn't very important in the world. And thousands of miles away the great bombs are falling and the stars are not moved thereby. None of it is important or all of it is. 76

Joseph Wood Krutch (1893–1970), perhaps the best-known western nature writer and regarded by many as one of the most profound, philosophically, also was deeply interested in the epistemological questions which wilderness seems to arouse. In The Voice of the Desert (1954), he reflected upon the traditional, Lockean dualism of Western civilization, and questioned how well it fit the systematic, holistic world he was then learning, in his first years of desert study.

Perhaps the mind is not merely a blank slate upon which anything may be written. Perhaps it reaches out spontaneously toward what can nourish either intelligence or imagination. Perhaps it is part of nature and, without being taught, shares nature's intentions. 77

Krutch also questioned the ancient Western denial of mind and emotion to the so-called lower forms of life. In The Desert Year (1952), his first western book, he faced the "pathetic fallacy" squarely:

     Let us not say that this animal or even this plant has "become adapted" to desert conditions. Let us say rather that they have all shown courage and ingenuity in making the best of the world as they found it. And let us remember that if to use such terms in connection with them is a fallacy then it can only be somewhat less a fallacy to use the same terms in connection with ourselves. 78

In The Great Chain of Life (1956), Krutch repeatedly affirmed a view of animals that was more than merely sympathetic. Man and the other animals are a continuum of life and consciousness, and as such an aspect of a great, overall, interpenetrating system. There is no good reason, according to Krutch, to suppose that when a bird sings it is not motivated by happiness and confidence as much as by some mechanical announcement of territory. Furthermore, and this point is crucial to understanding Krutch's own philosophical development, man can share the joy of animals, and in so doing overcome some of the sophisticated alienation which darkens our time.

These ideas are particularly interesting in light of their author's point of view some twenty-five years earlier, when in The Modern Temper (1929) he had stated conclusively that "Humanism" and "Nature" were "fundamentally antithetical." He had ended that book with a classic formulation of Western dualism: "Ours is a lost cause and there is no place for us in the natural universe, but we are not, for all that, sorry to be human. We should rather die as men than live as animals." 79 A few years later, in a series of articles for The Nation entitled "Was Europe a Success?" Krutch concluded that indeed it had been, and he mentioned in particular European philosophy as being one of "mankind's most precious achievements." By the middle 1930s, then, Krutch seemed to have arrived at a paradox: his culture was the best that mankind could attain to, but it appeared nevertheless to be a kind of dead end. At the end of its great course lay only a knowing, urban pessimism.

Krutch's intellectual life for the next forty years may be described as a recovery from that psychological impasse, a slowly accelerating turn toward a positively conceived holism in which, finally, wilderness played a great part. The writing of a biography of Henry David Thoreau, published in 1948, was important to his change, but a sabbatical year in the Arizona desert in 1950, during which he decided to move to the West, was decisive. The rest of Krutch's life was spent in a study of the desert in the Southwest and in Baja California. He made many trips to Baja, beginning in 1958, and there came into his closest contact with the wild. The great contrast between the quiet, pristine quality of a then-little-visited land and the furious development of his own Arizona made the modern situation more clear to him than ever, but in a very different way from that portrayed in The Modern Temper. He came to recognize alienation, certainly, but not as a given–rather, as a cultural artifact. His sense of wilderness, as the pattern which connects and instructs, became confirmed. In one of his final essays, Krutch turned one hundred and eighty degrees away from The Modern Temper to state that wilderness, besides being the expression of ultimate systematic health, also represents a saving spiritual allegiance.

    Faith in wildness, or in nature as a creative force, has the deeper, possibly the deepest, significance for our future. It is a philosophy, a faith; it is even, if you like, a religion. It puts our ultimate trust, not in human intelligence, but in whatever it is that created human intelligence and is, in the long run, more likely than we to solve our problems. 80

The themes of solitude and self-sufficiency in wilderness, long present at the experiential core of the nature essay, have been brought to perhaps quintessential expression in the work of Welsh-born Colin Fletcher (1922–). Author of the immensely popular The Complete Walker, Fletcher often deals specifically, even minutely, with technical aspects of backcountry travel. In his case, though, equipment seems to be merely the means to freeing up time in which a leisurely, reflective frame of mind may develop. Fletcher's specifically western works, The Thousand-Mile Summer and The Man Who Walked Through Time, are marked by introspection and by the quickened, whole-body sense of one's environment that solitary backpacking may bring on. There is a strong sense of place in these books, and a parallel sense of perceptual clarification. At the close of The Thousand-Mile Summer, after six months of walking northward across the diversity of California, Fletcher found himself loath to quit the march. He had come all the way from Mexico and now stood at the Oregon border; six months of route-figuring, shelter-finding, food-preparing, and simply moving ahead under a heavy pack had not only straightened out the lines of his life and created a certain competence, but had also, perhaps inevitably, built an identity. Fear of the "letdown and emptiness that can come at the end of something" came to him. Simplicity, though, might in fact be transferable: "I walked down through the trees toward the road that would take me back to San Francisco and everything the city now offered." Renewal through wilderness experience, specifically the enlivening of the mind to small, simple things, is an old theme in the nature essay; Fletcher's witness is that it continues to exert a deep pull, even (or especially) in our urban, technical time.

Edward Abbey (1927–) is also concerned with mind and wilderness, and in Desert Solitaire (1968), his major nonfiction work, he shows a strong desire for a clarified, illusionless consciousness with which to know the desert. The sense is that in the very seeing, in the meeting with raw nature in what might be its most portentous aspect–dry wilderness–something profoundly meaningful could be enacted. One must be extraordinarily careful not to let conventions distort the precious moment. A purely subjective or idealistic mode of consciousness would result in "not a picture of the external reality but simply a mirror of the thinker." At the opposite, objective end, one would be "separating too deeply the observer and the thing observed . . . and again falsifying our view of the world." 81 The ideal is a perception that transcends the dualism: Abbey says he "dream[s] of a hard and brutal mysticism in which the naked self merges with the nonhuman world and yet somehow survives still intact, individual, separate." 82 With that, presumably, one would know and be, simultaneously. One would have entered the paradox of nature, of the wild universe, in which systematic unity and selfhood coexist. The genuine realization or accomplishment of this state would seem to place one in the company of the enlightened; Abbey says he only "dreams" of it.

With this philosophicaland psychological quest Abbey demonstrates an inherent significance in nature writing. He is also making a contemporary statement of one of the western essay's ancient and recurrent concerns. But the quest is not his only theme. He is probably best known, in fact, for his cinematic, rhythmic presentations of landscape, and for his spirited, noholds-barred defense of the wilderness. Describing the view from a side-door Pullman in 1944, when he first traveled into the West, Abbey says,

Proud of my freedom and hobohood I stood in the doorway of the boxcar, rocking with the motion of the train, ears full of the rushing wind and the clattering wheels, and stared and stared and stared, like a starving man, at the burnt, barren, bold, bright landscape passing before my eyes. Telegraph poles flashed by close to the tracks, the shining wires dipped and rose, dipped and rose; but beyond the line and the road and the nearby ridges, the queer foreign shapes of mesa and butte seemed barely to move at all; they revolved slowly at an immense distance, strange right-angled promontories of rose-colored rock that remained in view, from my slowly altering perspective, for an hour, for two hours, at a time. 83

In the struggle to defend wilderness, Abbey uses a first-person narrative point of view, and cuts and rips the commercial spirit of the times, technological power out of control, institutionalized laziness symbolized by automobiles and power lines running everywhere across the land, the arrogance of some politicians and bureaucrats, the ecological ignorance of these same and of economic boosters who see no limits in nature, and the timidity and insularity of all who somehow fail to hear the cry of the wilderness as it goes under. Clearly, in Abbey's view, we are in something like the last days, and strong measures are required. In Desert Solitaire, Slickrock (1971), Cactus Country (1973), and in The Journey Home: Some Words in Defense of the American West (1977), he has established a presence more militant than that of any other major western writer.

In a time like this, Abbey seems to be saying, what must be guarded above all is the moment and the place wherein free, unmediated perception, and perhaps the dreamed-of ultimate connection, may occur. The ideal is leisure for the free play of the mind, together with its natural partner, the unspoiled clarity and rightness of wilderness. Upon this protected base, which Abbey refers to as "something entirely different" (different from capitalism or socialism, or indeed any "ism"), a sane society might conceivably evolve. Meanwhile, Abbey's persona as a writer revels in what free time and free place are yet available. In Desert Solitaire he speaks with great affection of his first two seasons as a ranger in Arches National Monument, "when the tourist business was poor and the time passed extremely slowly, as time should pass, with the days lingering and long, spacious and free as the summers of childhood." 84 Independence of convention, love of wilderness, nostalgia for freedom, serious searching for psychological wholeness-with-nature, and righteous defense of the wild–all of the major themes in the western nature essay–come to fresh expression in Abbey's popular and influential writing.

THOMAS J. LYON, Utah State University

Notes

1. Henry Beston, "Foreword," in Herbert Faulkner West, The Nature Writers (Brattleboro, Vermont: Stephen Daye Press, 1939), pp. 5–6.

2. Mary Austin, The Lands of the Sun (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1927), p. 19.

3. Reuben Gold Thwaites, ed., Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804–1806 (New York: Antiquarian Press, 1959), pp. 334–335.

4. Washington Irving, Astoria, edited by Edgeley W. Todd (Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1964), p. 170.

5. Thomas Nuttall, A Journal of Travels into the Arkansa Territory, During the Year 1819 (Philadelphia: Thos. H. Palmer, 1821). Rpt. in Reuben Gold Thwaites, ed., Early Western Travels (Cleveland: Arthur H. Clark, 1905), vol. XIII, pp. 218–219.

6. Thwaites, ed., vol. XIII, pp. 161–162.

7. Thwaites, ed., vol. XIII, p. 101.

8. F. Andrew Michaux, The North American Sylva. (Volumes 4 and 5 by Thomas Nuttall.) Philadelphia: Rice, Rutter & Co., 1865, vol. 4, p. 10.

9. Michaux, vol. 4, pp. 74–75.

10. John I. Merritt III, "Naturalists Across the Rockies," The American West 14 (March-April 1977): 8.

11. John K.Townsend, Narrative of a Journey Across the Rocky Mountains to the Columbia River, and a Visit to the Sandwich Islands, Chili, &c. (Philadelphia: Henry Perkins, 1839). Rpt. in Reuben Gold Thwaites, ed., Early Western Travels (Cleveland: Arthur H. Clark, 1905), vol. XXI, p. 194.

12. Alexander Philip Maximilian, Travels in the Interior of North America, 1832– 1834, in Reuben Gold Thwaites, ed., Early Western Travels (Cleveland: Arthur H. Clark, 1906), vol. XXII, p. 299.

13. Thwaites, ed., vol. XXIII, pp. 176–177.

14. Townsend, Narrative, p. 258.

15. Osborne Russell, Journal of a Trapper (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, n.d.), p. 27.

16. Russell, p. 46.

17. Russell, p. 118.

18. J.C. Frémont, Report of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains in the Year 1842 and to Oregon and North California in the Years 1843–'44 (Washington: U.S. Senate, 1845), p. 66.

19. Frémont, p. 69.

20. Howard Stansbury, Exploration and Survey of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah (Philadelphia: Lippincott, Grambo, & Co., 1852), p. 172.

21. Stansbury, p. 179.

22. Francis P. Farquhar, ed., Up and Down California in 1860–1864 (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1966), p. x.

23. Farquhar, ed., pp. 174–175. 24. Kevin Starr, Americans and the California Dream, 1850–1915 (New York: Oxford university Press, 1973), p. 179.

25. Clarence King, Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada (Philadelphia: J.B. Lippincott, 1963), p. 1.

26. Farquhar, ed., pp. 520–521.

27. King, p. 32.

28. King, pp. 23–24.

29. Wallace Stegner, "The Scientist as Artist: Clarence E. Dutton and the Tertiary History of the Grand Canyon District," The American West 15 (May-June 1978): 19.

30. Clarence E. Dutton, Report on the Geology of the High Plateaus of Utah (Washington: Government Printing Office, 1880), p. 3.

31. Clarence E. Dutton, Tertiary History of the Grand Cañon District (Washington: Government Printing Office, 1882), p. 90. 32. Dutton, Tertiary History, p. 56.

33. Dutton, Tertiary History, pp. 55–56.

34. John Muir, My First Summer in the Sierra (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1979), pp. 83–85. (First published in 1911.)

35. Muir, My First Summer in the Sierra, p. 131.

36. John Muir, Letters to a Friend (Dunwoody, Georgia: Norman S. Berg, 1973), p. 161. (First published in 1915.)

37. John Muir, The Yosemite (New York: Doubleday/Anchor, 1962), p. 99. (First published in 1912.)

38. John Muir, "Wild Wool," The Overland Monthly 5 (April 1875): 364.

39. Mary Austin, Earth Horizon (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1932), p. 198.

40. Mary Austin, The Land of Journeys' Ending (New York: Century, 1924), pp. 441–442.

41. Austin, The Land of Journeys' Ending, p. 40.

42. John C. Van Dyke, The Grand Canyon of the Colorado (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1920), p. 17.

43. Van Dyke, The Grand Canyon of the Colorado, p. 130.

44. John C. Van Dyke, The Desert (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1904), p. 129.

45. Van Dyke, The Desert, p. 173.

46. Van Dyke, The Desert, p, 192.

47. John C. Van Dyke, The Mountain (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1916), pp. 68–69.

48. Van Dyke, The Mountain, p. 198.

49. John C. Van Dyke, The Open Spaces (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1922), p. 20.

50. George Wharton James, The Wonders of the Colorado Desert (Boston: Little, Brown, 1906), p. 76.

51. James, The Wonders of the Colorado Desert, p. 531.

52. James, The Wonders of the Colorado Desert, p. 532.

53. Van Dyke, The Desert, p. 59.

54. George Wharton James, Utah, Land of Blossoming Valleys (Boston: The Page Company, 1922), p. 205.

55. Enos A. Mills, Wild Life on the Rockies (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1909), pp. 3, 5.

56. Mills, Wild Life on the Rockies, p. 254.

57. Enos A. Mills, Your National Parks (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1917), p. 393.

58. Aldo Leopold, Round River (New York: Oxford University Press, 1953), p. 146.

59. Aldo Leopold, A Sand County Almanac (New York: Oxford University Press, 1949), pp. 224–225.

60. Leopold, A Sand County Almanac, pp. 200–201.

61. Robert Marshall, "The Problem of the Wilderness," The Scientific Monthly 7 (February 1930): 143.

62. Margaret E. and Olaus Murie, Wapiti Wilderness (New York: A. A. Knopf, 1966), p.47.

63. Olaus Murie, A Field Guide to Animal Trucks (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1954, pp. 272–275.

64. Adolph Murie, The Wolves of Mount McKinley (Washington: Government Printing Office, 1944), pp. 31–32.

65. J. Frank Dobie, "Pertinences and Patrons," in Dobie, Mody C. Boatright and Harry H. Ransom, eds., Coyote Wisdom (Dallas: Southern Methodist University Press, 1938), p. 6.

66. J. Frank Dobie, Guide to the Life and Literature of the Southwest (Dallas: Southern Methodist University Press, 1952), p. 149.

67. J. Frank Dobie, The Voice of the Coyote (Boston: Little, Brown, 1949), p. 29.

68. J. Frank Dobie, "Foreword," in Roy Bedichek, The Sense of Smell (Garden City, New York: Doubleday, 1960), p. 7.

69. Roy Bedichek, Karánkaway Country (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1974), p. xxii. (Originally published in 1950.)

70. Bedichek, p. 25.

71. John Graves, Goodbye to a River (New York: A. A. Knopf, 1960), p. 290.

72. John Graves, Hard Scrabble: Observations on a Patch of Land (New York: A. A. Knopf, 19741, p. 5.

73. Robert H. Boyle, John Graves, and T. H. Watkins, The Water Hustlers (San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1971), p. 111.

74. Richard Astro, "Steinbeck and Ricketts: Escape or Commitment in The Sea of Cortez?" Western American Literature 6 (Summer 1971): 117.

75. John Steinbeck, The Log from the Sea of Cortez (New York: The Viking Press, 1962), p. 151.

76. Steinbeck, pp. 3–4.

77. Joseph Wood Krutch, The Voice of the Desert (New York: William Sloane Associates, 1954), p. 218.

78. Joseph Wood Krutch, The Desert Year (New York: William Sloane Associates, 1952), pp. 28–29.

79. Joseph Wood Krutch, The Modern Temper (New York: Harcourt, Brace, 1929), p. 249.

80. Joseph Wood Krutch, "If You Don't Mind My Saying So," The American Scholar 39 (Spring 1970): 204.

81. Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1968), p. 240.

82. Abbey, Desert Solitaire, p. 6.

83. Edward Abbey, The Journey Home (New York: E. P. Dutton, 1977), pp. 10–11.

84. Abbey, Desert Solitaire, p. xii.

Selected Bibliography

There is not very much critical literature on western nature writing–almost nothing, in fact, in comparison to that on western fiction or poetry. The following list is meant to include the most important primary sources. I have also included three critical studies which emphasize the psychological and cultural importance of the experience of nature.

Abbey, Edward. Abbey's Road. New York: E.P. Dutton, 1979. The Introduction is a forthright statement on the writer in the West; the essays are crusty, various, sometimes surprising.

. Cactus Country. New York: Time-Life Books, 1973. The Lower Sonoran desert, with iconoclastic commentary on man's impact and related subjects.

. Desert Solitaire. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1968. If any twentieth-century work comes close to Walden . . .

. The Journey Home.New York: E.P. Dutton, 1977. "Some Words in Defense of the American West" (subtitle). "The earth, like the sun, like the air, belongs to everyone–and to no one" (epigraph).

. Slickrock. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1971. With photography by Philip Hyde. Experience in and defense of southern Utah; stunning photography; more than a coffee-table book.

Austin, Mary. Earth Horizon. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1932. A fearless and searching autobiography, especially in the early chapters.

. The Flock. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1906. The life and lore of the herders of the southern California deserts and mountains, with reflections on the effects of outdoor life.

. The Land of Journeys' Ending. New York: The Century Company, 1924. The New Mexico mystique.

. The Land of Little Rain. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1903. "You of the house habit can hardly understand the sense of the hills. . . . The business that goes on in the street of the mountain is tremendous, world-formative."

. The Lands of the Sun. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1927. Originally published in 1914 as California, the Land of the Sun. J. Frank Dobie said, "Mary Austin saw the meanings of things; she was a creator."

Bedichek, Roy. Adventures with a Texas Naturalist. Garden City, New York: Doubleday, 1947. The essay on fences is a small masterpiece of ecological understanding.

. Karánkaway Country. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1974. First published in 1950. The Gulf Coast of Texas, and the rivers that run to it.

Boyle, Robert H., John Graves, and T. H. Watkins. The Water Hustlers. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1971. Three big water projects in Texas, California, and New York dissected; their promoters deservedly pilloried.

Burdick, Arthur J. The Mystic Mid-Region. New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1904. Travelogue to the Mohave, with emphasis on the ways of burros and prospectors.

Colby, William E., ed. John Muir's Studies in the Sierra. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1960. Muir at his most scientific, proving his glacier theory of the Sierra's history.

Craighead, Frank. Track of the Grizzly. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1979. An account of a long-term study in the Yellowstone area, with suggestions for management. Deeply informed by ecological sensitivity.

Dobie, J. Frank. Guide to the Life and Literature of the Southwest. Dallas: Southern Methodist University Press, 1952 Well-ventilated with fresh, outdoor air.

. The Longhorns. Boston: Little, Brown, 1941. Much more factual and realistic than "Red River."